Monsoon mm 700 usb adapter driver download

My problem is that the male pin, with three rows of male pins , dislodged from the wire when someone tripped over it. As a side note - I just bid on ebay for controller puck and stopped. There is a serious market out there if anyone would construct a replacement solution for the Monsoon Planar 9 speakers.

I realized I crossed the mute wire with I think the left channel wire? Not sure which one I crossed it with but it seems that the mute function was disabled when I did this. That caused the system to turn on. As for the Planar 9 series, it is a 8 pin DIN connector. Crossing these 2 certain wires will enable your speakers to turn on. It is only a matter of tricking the system to thinking there is a controller connected.

By closing this circuit, we are in essence tricking it. If you can still connect the 8 pin to the back of the subwoofer But when you said dislodged, do you mean the pins fell off or the puck fell off?

Can you still connect the puck to the subwoofer? Like I said, we cannot rely on monsoon anymore because they are no longer around.

But we can use what we got. If you have the connector, and at least some wire on it, you can have your monsoons up and running. Just follow the simple trick in my original post and all the gizmos should turn on.

Granted, wires may have to be crossed differently on other systems. But lets have fun and experiment! I actually have two sets of the Planar 9 speakers - so I can plug the bad controller puck in the set I am using and demonstrate it does not work. The puck where one of the pins came out I put the pin back in just by pressing it in - obviously it is not connected internally. Now I can't figure out which one is the bad pin.

But when I plug it into the back of the subwoofer the light does not go on on the puck. That makes me wonder if crossing the wires etc. It's the best solution I have heard so far so I will give it a try and cross my fingers. Does anyone know of anything alternative to purchase - or that can be done internal to the subwoofer - to make the Planar 9 speakers operate without the controller puck? Don't be too hasty, however, to toss the subwoofer. To wit,. Ken O's hot-melt glue suggestion might be fine, but in other cases it is not the solder joints that crash, it is the cruddy jack itself.

I happened to have some very good-quality panel-mount phono jacks in my parts bin. Not surprisingly, the stereo input jack on this one had held up just fine, and so for now there is no urgency to perform the phono jack conversion but I'll probably do it eventually because this too, in my experience, audibly improves the sound.

I notice that one of the wires has some embrossed numbers and letters on them and the other one does not have any - does anyone know which side of the speaker wire the red band goes on or if polarity on this speaker is a non - issue for phase alignment? Does anyone have some instructions for hooking these up? These speakers certainly are to be guarded with your life. My problem is also with the input jack on the subwoofer, not the puck.

A little different than others, with buzzing of the 'short circuit' kind when the yellow plug is not positioned properly in the jack. But almost ANY position short of bending the plug 45 degrees in one direction creates the problem. So I've wrapped the cord around the subwoofer tightly to hold it in the needed position. John Bartholomew -- I think yours is the answer And for now, my puck is fine.

Any thoughts on keeping the puck and replacing just the jack for now? Thanks to all for an assortment of backup ideas. These are the kind affixed to the back panels of CD players, stereo receivers, and the like, for attaching standard shielded interconnect cables. Naturally, this involves separate jacks for right and left channels. They are available individually from many electronics part suppliers. I haven't checked Digi-Key or Mouser, but these are likely places to look.

There are also suppliers who specialize in high-end audio and if you want to splurge you can get superb jacks from them. Tip: go to www. See previous post: you must drill two holes in the back panel, and the jacks need to have non-metallic insulating washers as well.

Choose hole locations with care. As per my previous posts, I was happy to chuck the puck altogether and use conventional shielded stereo interconnect cords, in which the left and right channel signals are routed in two separately-shielded lines rather than combined in one.

Yes, you can hear the difference, and on speakers that are as high in quality as these, this is worthwhile for me. In one case my source is my PC, and in another it is a portable CD player. You give up the line-mounted volume control, etc. I don't own an MM To each his own.

You can be creative if you can't live without the standard puck-equipped cord. Miniature stereo plugs come in a variety of sizes; I don't know what is used on these Monsoons but I'm sure someone here does. Y adapters are available in nearly any configuration you can think of, so if you implement the RCA jack solution, you could achieve a jack compatible with the puck-equipped cord using such an adapter.

In terms of the original circuit-board-mounted jack, I doubt that there is an exact replacement part available. I have not looked to see if there a jack of the panel-mount variety in any of the parts catalogs mentioned above. That is another possibility. Be aware that these are physically larger than the circuit-board-mounted parts, so assume that you won't be able to simply enlarge the existing hole and mount the jack there. If you can locate a proper part, assume that you will also have to drill a new hole to mount it in.

John B. It will be hard to find it in any store. Everything is in great shape. What phenomenal sound! It also sounds great when hooked up to an analogue tuner. Does anybody have a copy of the owner's manual available? Thanks to everybody for contributing. MM's here. I have jiggle the connect countless times like any connector it wears out and probably should replaced.

Now after 8 years of intense use the speakers are distorting and I would like to get a new system, you can't even find these on ebay. Yeah, they are the basic ones but with the sub on a hard wood floor and use only for my computer they are great! Friends with other systems are really impressed with the music quality! And my 'puck' broke too. Just plugged one end in the SubWoofer Sound Out and the other in the green sound input on the computer Be sure to tell them what op system you are using!

All the best Incredible speakers for the money. Every time they were playing music when someone came into my office, the reaction was the same. Now, someone needs to kick the mfg in the pants and get them to make MORE! I have the MMs and was getting the buzzing sound, due either to the puck or the subwoofer input jack. Used the MM puck and cables instead. Worked fine, no hint of bad connection. So for those needing a fix, that's an option. I have the MH system.

Before you go too far down this path, is your power module within 4 inches of the subwoofer enclosure? If so, the hum could simply be due to the sensitive amplifier circuitry falling within the magnetic field coming from the power transformer and in that case all you need to do is move them farther apart.

I've stumbled across some MMs HP recently had an auction, and I picked these up. Problem is, I already have another set of level 9s with the pod control. Would anyone be interested in purchasing the MMs? They work perfectly, come with the original pod volume control and power adapter.

The bass is strong, and the sound is very clear. I also have a set of MH s that were randomly included in the box that the mms were shipped in. There was only one speaker though. It still works great though, and has all the accessories power adapter, volume pod, etc If you're interested, drop me a line! After working perfectly for 2 days How involved is fixing it based on the posts above?

One of the satellites sounds tinny when playing lower frequencies like it is blown. Do I need a replacement or is there a fix for this problem? I have never abused the speakers I have had a set of Monsoon mm s since about , and like all of you I love them. I ever since I moved them from my original setup in I have had issues with the input crackling, right or left speaker will cut out.

I used to be able to fix it by jiggling the wires or tapping the top of the sub near the connections. However, last week my system cut out completely.

Now when I plug in the sub, and hit the power it does not light up. So it must be a power supply issue now. Has anyone had something similar happen to their sub? I will try to find a similarly speced power supply and see if that will fix it. However, i may just need to replace the sub entirely. Can anyone suggest a good sub that will drive the mm speakers? I'm not sure if there are specific power requirements for running them.

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. After I fix this, I'll be sure to baby them. It's the CSJ syndrome. Cruddy Stereo Jack If you are a do-it-yourselfer, this is eminently fixable. Scroll back to entry Enjoy your MMs. It's possible that it's merely the fuse to the power supply, and that it blew due to a momentary surge.

It could also have blown because something in the amp itself failed. There's one way to find out: replace it. I don't know of a suitable replacement unit for the sub. They have the popping and cracking that has been linked to the CSJ, but one of the flat-panels also seems to be blown.

The sub works fine,as well as the other flat panel. Any idea of what they may be worth? Please respond to kilowat3 aol. Do you know where I could buy a new one? It seems impossible, I've looked on their website, on ebay, etc. Any suggestion? I rigged a 'puck' go around using stuff from them when the puck on my MM's broke. Hope someone from here can help. I have the Monsoon Planar Media 9 Audio system. I dropped one of the flat speakers on the floor and broke the speaker stand.

I glued it back, but the speaker dosen't work. I've taken it apart and checked everything and there appears to be nothing broken. I would greatly appreciate any help possible here. I'm currently using them with a new iMac -- movies in particular sound awesome.

Recently however my right speaker has began to crackle. I too have been always able to jostle the cord or yellow connector to revive them. Now this is no longer possible: as of today my right speaker is completely out.

Any suggestions are great appreciated. I've repaired two MMs with this problem. Rather than attempting to locate a replacement jack, I installed two "RCA" jacks also known as phono jacks on the back panel. See entries and for details. My problem is about ever 5 min or so they studder. What do I need to do to fix this?

Sometimes dust and dirt gets inside and messes the signal up. That's what happened to me anyway. So simple to fix. I hate the puck! We've had our speakers mm and for the past year or so, the "puck" would make a buzzing sound and we would hit it or bang on it and the buzzing would stop, the sound on the computer was great otherwise.

One day I was not very happy and the puck kept making it's stupid buzzing and the puck was stuck under the desk, and I couldn't get it to stop, - long story short, I yanked on it and the puck broke off leaving the wires exposed. Now, no sound. So, I don't know anything about souldering or crossing wires or anything of that nature. Short of just tossing the whole set, what would be my best option? Would anyone have suggestions for diagnosing and repairing the problem amp?

Thanks to all for the continuing interest in these. In preparation I ended up reading this entire discussion thread. I had thought from previous reads there was a solution in this discussion thread for fixing the problematic female jack where the male puck connector with multiple pins connects on the back of the subwoofer.

Instead, I realized all of the solutions were for other issues. Does anyone know what to do when the female jack for the Monsoon Planar Media 9 puck no longer permits a healthy puck to communicate? Is there a way to gerry-rig the Planar Media 9 Speakers to get around the female jack for the multiple pin male puck connector? So it is not availbale for use on the damaged system.

Thank you! PLEASE read the following re-re-post by me from after i realized that the puck and woofer is as disposible as yesterday's newspaper. Pretty simple. Monsoon subwoofer goes to the trash. Can you offer any guidance on whether there are parameters that folks should follow in selecting a compatible sub? I seem to recall something about a KHz crossover. Definitely no hard feelings on my part. Forums such as this one should remain open to difference of opinion. As Ted says, the quality of the Monsoons is due to the planar satellites.

I just took that as a given and assumed readers might already be familiar with the fact. If the problem is with the amplifier circuitry built into the subwoofer enclosure, I concur with Ted that "replace" rather than "fix" would be the better approach.

If the problem, on the other hand, is limited to the input jack, which seems to fail on damn near every made-in-China unit, well then "you pays your money and you takes your choices. The implementation of standard phono jacks as an alternative to that flimsy stereo jack necessitates tossing the puck, just as you, Ted, recommend. I am glad to hear that you obtained equivalent funtionality with a Logitech subwoofer.

Perhaps you could share with us a little more information about this, such as the model number and the wattage rating for the channels that drive the satellites. Each speaker connects to the sub with a 4 pin DIN. I can power up the sub red LED but I get no sound at all from sub or speakers. Does the light turn green once it gets a signal? I think if I toss the sub i'll have difficulty replacing it with something I can connect these speakers to.

Won't I? After reading this entire thread I'll assume I have a puck problem or a input problem. I guess I will need a volume control to check it out properly. If that doesn't fix it what am looking for once this sub unit is opened up?

Bad solder at input jack? Do I replace the input jack first or are there more potential faults I should be looking for? Pretty nice sound : to mike some answer for your questions 1. MH use a extra cone drive for mid-range, and it was driven seperately that's why the 4-pin DIN is needed. So connect the sat to other sub seems not a easy job. Or have a wiring diagram? On the back panel, remove the lower 2 screws on the black metal panel. Don't remove the upper two. Then remove the four recessed screws in the top of the unit.

This constitutes the whole amp module, which will now lift out of the woofer box. Trying to use Planar Focus to produce music for a room full of people just won't work very well. One of the biggest problems in generating 3D positional audio from two speakers is cross talk from the speakers where your left ear hears what's coming from the right speaker and vice versa. Clearly such a directional speaker will help prevent this to a degree, and of course 3D sound algorithms attempt to do the same.

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